The big problem with the blacked out trim on the turbo models is that, after many years of service, the original coating has a tendency to chip or flake off, showing the stainless below. Although this doesn't affect the function of the vehicle in any manner, it adversely affects the appearance.

As part of reassembly, I am refinishing the window trim on the '84.

Process

• Remove the trim from the vehicle (this is not absolutely necessary, but will definitely improve the quality of the job) and wet sand the original finish with 320 grit wet-or-dry paper to smooth the paint edges. Apply an adhesion promoter to the freshly sanded surface. I've tried both etching primer and Bond Aid. In all honesty, the Bond Aid works better than the etching primer and, if scratched, doesn't leave that nasty green color behind.
• Allow fifteen minutes for the promoter to cure. Apply a single coat of Duplicolor's Trim paint (this paint very closely matches the sheen and color of the original trim). Let this coat cure 20 minutes and follow up with a second, slightly heavier coat. This coat should have the spray splotches in it to provide a factory texture. This is what my trim looked like, after spraying the initial coat.
  
  
  
   
• Let the trim cure overnight in at least 70F before installing. When replacing, apply silicone sealant to the screw threads to prevent rusting/corrosion. When installed, with luck, your trim will look like the image below.
  
  
  
• To prevent flaking damage to the trim, prevent spraying it with high pressure water (either through a garden hose nozzle or car wash). If flaking does occur, repeat the process above to keep the trim looking appropriate. If flaking becomes a big problem, you may consider blacking out the trim using an automotive grade vinyl (sign graphics).